The Mountain

Song Mountain is considered to be the most important  of the five sacred mountains in China. In 87 AD Buddhists monks came from India carrying the first texts of Buddhism. About 500 years later the more famous Bodhidarma came to the already established Shaolin Temple, sat in the cave on Wuru Peak for 9 years,  returned to the Temple and introduced a new Zen form of Buddhism to China.

The mountain is dotted with many other temples, Taoist and Confucian as well as Buddhist.

From a geological point of view the mountain is so important that it has been recognised by Unesco and it is one of their protected World Heritage sites.

As one nears the mountain it presents breath-taking vistas but probably one of the best ways to truly experience its magnificence is to traverse the peaks on a stunning 8 kilometer walk — fortunately its difficulty and the fact that it is relatively unknown ensures that not many people go there.  The path passes through an astonishing newly-built monastery still in the process of construction.

The travellor can begin the walk at either end. The photos start at one end — the steep way! The climb is an almost vertical 2 kilometers which finally reaches the site of the San Huang Zhai Monastery.

The story of this monastery is an amazing one. These photos show it in a nearly completed state. It is the inspiration of Master Dejin, Master Wu Nanfang’s friend and kung fu brother and is closely associated with Wugulun Kung fu.

While living in the Shaolin Temple and practising kung fu, Master Dejian used to climb up the mountain to a place near a very small temple where two old nuns  lived. About 70 years ago the older nun was the daughter of a very rich family and had a companion, 3 years younger than herself, to take care of her. The daughter was not interested in the trappings of wealth and a fortuitous marriage and so escaped from her family with her companion to Song Mountain where they established the tiny temple. Now 92 and 89 years old respectively they have lived their lives on the mountain side. They both appeared in the BBC documentary.

Master Dejian had the idea to build a larger temple on this beautiful site and, with their blessings, about 6 years ago, he embarked on this extraordinary project.

I asked the ‘younger’ nun how she and her mistress felt about having their quiet spot invaded by the deafeningly noisy construction and she just smiled so sweetly and said that they were happy to be taken care of in their old age and to be provided with a comfortable place to stay and food to eat. I am sure life must have been at times unbearably difficult for them in the past.

Passing through the monastery one continues on the amazing path cut into the mountain side (see the first picture), across the suspension bridge and then deep into the mountain until finally arriving at a cable car by which one descends into the Shaolin Temple complex.

Other places to visit on the Song Mountain range are the Taoist temple, Zhongue Temple, the Songyue Pagoda (the oldest of its kind in China) and the beautiful Fa Weng Temple to which the first Buddhist monks from India came nearly 2000 years ago.

Close to the Wugulun Academy in Shi Li Pu village, one can wander up into the foothills of the mountain and explore the touchingly beautiful abandoned village ( I feel so sad that places like this are not preserved and restored and kept as a reminder of a more gracious past) and a magical valley reaching into the depths of the mountain.

 

TO GET TO SONG MOUNTAIN

 

Take a train or plane to the nearest big city, Zhengzhou (in Henan Proince). It is possible to take a bus to Dengfeng where the mountain and Shaolin Temple are but for first-time visitors it is probably easier to take a taxi which you will find outside the airport or station. Negotiate the fare first (writing it) — it should not be more than 450 Chinese yuan. The taxi driver will want to take you straight to the Shaolin Temple but you should go to a hotel or youth hostel first. Hotels are easy to find online (look for hotels in Dengfeng) or if your budget is low, stay at Coco’s Travellers Hostel (online booking). Print out the map to show a taxi driver or a local where you want to go. Coco has a very nice new hostel inside the Shaolin Temple too. Ask staff for details.  From here you can take the mountain walk to SanHuang Zhai. Remember that you will have to pay the Shaolin Temple entrance fee to go here (100 yuan).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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